Grizzly Bar
Grizzly Bar is an unabashedly patriotic Canada-themed bar from the team behind Offworld.
I'll be the first to admit, the prospect of a Canada-themed bar, all maple syrup-this and hockey-that initially struck me as hokey, and the 9-ft. grizzly bear and motion-activated speaker playing an a cappella rendition of "O Canada" upon entering certainly didn't help its case, but, very quickly, I discovered something far more sincere at the heart of the restaurant and bar.
A major departure from Offworld, the space-themed bar from Storm Crow Manor founder Jason Kapalka and his wife, Jessica, that formerly occupied the space, Jessica tells me that the transition wasn't actually as difficult as it may seem.
The space was already outfitted, for example, with around 1000 sq. ft. of projection screens on the walls and ceilings that used to display scenes of outer space. Now, you'll find them emblazoned with breathtaking natural scenes from across the country.
Jessica and Jason have also formed a partnership with SCTV to screen old episodes of the legendary Canadian sketch show on their screens. On game days for Canadian hockey teams, that's what you can expect to see.
The bar has also been outfitted with an impressive collection of Canadian-themed odds and ends, like a canoe mounted to the ceiling, a pair of vintage hockey skates, the taxidermied first fish one of the bar's staff members ever caught, a Canadian Heritage Moment photo-op, ad infinitum.
Seriously, everywhere you look reveals a new detail, ranging from delightfully stereotypical, like a holographic grizzly bear in a Canadian-flag sweater dancing on the ceiling, to unbelievably niche, like a Speaker's Corner sign.
They'll even let you pay using Canadian Tire money, as long as you have enough to cover the price of an entire menu item at a one-to-one value.
Even the playlist is comprised entirely of Canadian artists, but don't worry: Nickelback hasn't wormed its way on there quite yet.
Perhaps the biggest point of pride for Jessica and Jason — decor-wise, at least — is their wall of heroes, which depicts a number of Canada's greatest and most inspiring figures.
Just weeks after opening, Astronaut Chris Hadfield caught wind of the bar and swung by, performed a few songs, and signed his photo on the wall of heroes. I mean, what could be more Canadian than that?
Their devotion to the bar's theming doesn't only extend to interior design, though. They offer exclusively Canadian beers and wines, use several local spirits in their cocktails, and source a large majority of food ingredients locally.
In the case that they can't source a particular ingredient or spirit from within Canada, they look to countries like New Zealand and Mexico. If there's one thing made abundantly clear right off the bat, it's that nothing — and I mean nothing — you order at Grizzly Bar comes from the United States.
That's not to say that visitors from the United States aren't welcome at the bar, though. In fact, it's the opposite.
"We really wanted to create a space where people just come and celebrate Canada," Jessica tells me. "If you're an international student, if you're just visiting the city, or if you've lived here your whole life, as long as you love Canada, we want you here."
The menu, too, is widely inspired by Canadian cuisine and ingredients.
It should come as no surprise that poutine ($12) is their bread and butter, but you can do a whole lot more with it here than merely the tried-and-true gravy and cheese curds.
We added Montreal smoked meat ($7) to ours, and it was a complete revelation, but they also offer additions like BBQ pulled pork, ground elk and fried chicken to really make it your own.
They even offer a vegan option made with mushroom gravy and dairy-free cheese curds from Ontario-based, family-run business, VEGCHEESE, because no one should have to live life without poutine.
The Chinook Chicken Wings ($17.50) are listed as a starter, but could make a perfectly adequate meal in their own right. For full immersion into the hyper-Canadian bubble, opt for the subtly sweet yet savoury Housemade Maple Whiskey sauce.
If you're not fed up with Montreal Smoked Meat after getting it on top of your poutine (I'm serious, do it), getting it in sandwich form ($18) can only be the next logical step.
Theirs is served between two crispy slices of marble rye from Petite Thuet, where they source a variety of their breads and baked goods, and slathered with a generous helping of Canadian mustard with a hefty pickle slice on the side.
Short of being served to you by a 70-year-old Québécois man who, rightly, gives you a dirty look for ordering in English, it's about as close to the real thing as you can get.
The Middle Earth Elkburger ($26.50) is one such menu item whose main ingredient doesn't actually come from Canada. Instead, it consisted of a New Zealand Elk patty on a Petite Thuet brioche bun, sauteed mushrooms, Gruyere cheese and a fried pickle.
For dessert, a personal favourite of Jessica's is the Ooey Gooey Butter Tarts ($8) from Georgina, Ontario's Moetarts, who won second place at the Midland Butter Tart Festival last year.
As a fairweather butter tart fan, I'm pleased to report that these, which come topped with a salted caramel drizzle and really are exactly as gooey as the name would imply, won my favour.
Something I'm always in the mood for, on the other hand, is the Nanaimo Bar a la Mode ($12), which is made in-house and comes paired with Chapman's maple-walnut ice cream.
In terms of beverages, the bar offers a huge selection of creative cocktails and mocktails (which, more often than not, come with a punny nickname) for you to try.
The Hogtown Sour ($15) is somewhere between a whiskey sour and a sangria, featuring rye, maple syrup and a splash of red wine that somehow all comes together to create a flavour entirely its own. The maple flavour is subtle, but the sweetness lingers on.
If you haven't gathered it by now, Grizzly Bar is all about experience, and several cocktails come with an experiential element of their own. The Calgary Flame ($20) is served with a sparkler and a quick burst of flame, reminiscent of a particularly heated game against the Oilers.
The Hadfield ($24), so-named after the bar's space-explorer patron saint, features spiced rum, Frangelico, Creme De Cacao, Espresso ice cream mix, a chocolate cookie dough ball and a pair of headphones that play his iconic zero-gravity cover of David Bowie's "Space Oddity."
To top it all off, they even bring the Canadian wilderness to you with the Tableside S'moregasbord ($19) that lets you roast marshmallows over an open flame on your table, no bug spray needed.
Grizzly Bar is located on the second floor at 739 Queen West.
Fareen Karim
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