Linny's Luncheonette is a nostalgic, old-school deli specializing in hand-cut pastrami, delicately smoked fish, freshly baked knishes, and full-sour pickles. It follows the much-earned success of its sister restaurant, Linny's. 

Located next door to the Ossington delicatessen-meets-steakhouse, this small, fast-casual sandwich shop celebrates tradition with time-honoured fare and retro decor. 

The playful orange takeout counter is the centre of the action. On display are a selection of chips, candy, Linny's coveted pastrami spice blend and homemade hot sauces, colourful sodas like Cherry Cott, and garlands of hung karnatzel. Behind the counter is the tightly packed kitchen, where the scent of freshly baked rye is unmistakable.

"David and I have an obsession with deli culture," shared Head Chef Ethan Rogers, speaking on the inspiration behind Linny's Luncheonette.

"For as long as I can remember, my dream has always been to have a deli counter and to be able to do pastrami and karnatzel and all these things that I grew up with." 

Rogers began his culinary career working in a little schnitzel house in the east end of Hamilton. From there, he moved to Toronto, dabbling in brunch and catering before gaining an apprenticeship at Barberian's Steak House and, with it, a love for butchery.

He was most recently at Michelin-recommended La Banane before restaurateur David Schwartz, Culinary and Creative Director of Big Hug Hospitality, approached him with the idea for a steakhouse and deli counter.

After countless summers visiting family in Montreal, where deli tours topped the itinerary, crafting an unfussy, Eastern European delicatessen menu felt like second nature.

The Pastrami Sandwich ($16) is about as old-school as it gets. It's made with just yellow mustard, lightly toasted rye, and juicy thick cuts of smoked pastrami. 

"Pastrami is kind of our signature thing," laughed Rogers. 

Brined for five days, rubbed with their signature spice blend, and smoked for 12 to 14 hours, the meat is remarkably tender and moist. 

The rye bread is sourced from family-owned and operated Aba's Bagel Company. 

The vegetarian Pickle and Potato ($14) surprised me the most. Filled with crispy fried latkes served at room temperature, herby cream cheese, smoked tomato aioli, a variety of in-house pickles, and plenty of fresh dill, the sandwich is vibrant and punchy, with layers of textures and flavours. 

"I think a lot of people will dismiss it right away—coming to a pastrami counter and ordering a vegetarian sandwich. But for many of us, it's one of our favourites," shared Rogers. 

The Smoked Fish ($15) is another deli staple. Made with cured sea bass smoked low and slow, the fish is tender and flaky, mixed with a blend of mayo and sour cream to create a spread-like consistency. It's topped with quick-pickled cucumbers and peppery watercress. Enjoy it as is, or make it spicy with the house-made fermented hot sauce, available as a secret-menu add-on.

The beef Karnatzel ($12), which is essentially a dried spiced sausage, keeps well for later as a protein snack. 

Then there's the Potato Knish ($6), a flaky, buttery pastry with a creamy, cheesy potato and caramelized onion filling. The dough is made in-house, stretched paper-thin over a wide table before being stuffed. Baked fresh daily and dunked in hot gravy, it's incredibly savoury and comforting. 

For dessert, the in-house Chocolate Chip Cookie ($4) might be one of the best in the city. Golden brown and dotted with chocolate chunks, it's thick, soft, and chewy, with a buttery, caramelized taste.

As with Linny's, Linny's Luncheonette pays tribute to Schwartz's family, particularly his late mother, Linda (Linny). The family owned a booming hot dog stand in the 1980s, Schwartz's. One of the first to hit the city, it was deemed the best dog around by the Toronto Star.

The stainless-steel kitchen backsplash and rounded red lettering on staff T-shirts (which customers can also buy) are direct ties to the humble, iconic cart that once served steamed dogs and challah buns.

Linny's Luncheonette is open Wednesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. (or until sold out) and is located at 174 Ossington Avenue.