Fusettes
Fusettes is a buzzing community hub where the coffee is bold, the banh mi are properly zippy, and local finds band together to create a relaxed, welcoming vibe.
Despite opening in a defunct Starbucks location last January, Fusettes is worlds away from a corporate coffee chain.
"I've lived in the neighbourhood for a few years now. I always thought there has to be a coffee place in here," says owner Max Aga.
In Fusettes, which takes its name from a type of small baguette, Aga has brought a much-needed local option to a bustling strip of Yonge.
"My motivation is working with the community, the neighbourhood," he explains. "I sourced everything locally. I wanted to create a non-corporate coffee place for the community that I live in."
To wit, the café serves drinks made with beans from Hamilton's Detour Coffee Roasters alongside snacks from Dear Grain. Local art hangs on the walls and a display near the front door is crowded with Mabel's Bakery sourdough loaves.
"The only option to buy bread was grocery stores and convenience stores," he says. "I wanted to reintroduce sourdoughs back into the market."
Gleaming from the counter, an espresso machine from La Marzocco is probably one of the few things not sourced from nearby. "It's every barista's dream machine," says Aga, adding that it was a non-negotiable addition to his first café.
Ground on-site, Detour's beans become bracing Cortados ($4.30), Lattes ($5.40) and, sweetened with Giffard syrup, Vanilla Bean Lattes ($5.60).
Served cold, they refresh in Shaken Espressos ($5.80), while proximity to cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and other spices turns them into fragrant Dirty Chai Lattes ($5.60).
Made with vibrant ceremonial-grade matcha, Matcha Lattes ($5.60) satisfy non-espresso drinkers and those looking for a more controlled buzz.
Provided by Dear Grain, Detour's sister company, and, in the case of vegan items, Tori's Bakeshop, snacks were chosen for their natural synergy with hot drinks.
"I picked these cookies from hundreds of cookies I tried," laughs Aga, gushing over a nutty, full-bodied Sourdough Sesame offering ($3.99).
No less intriguing, is an Ube Cashew Coconut Cookie ($3.99) that's tender, nutty and tropical with a wildly vivid hue care of the starchy yam.
For traditionalists, a Sourdough Ginger Chai Cookie ($3.99) bolsters a slew of warm spices with the subtle tang of a yeasty backbone.
Slightly more substantial, lofty Cheddar and Blueberry Lemon scones ($4.50) successfully straddle the line between snack and light meal.
Then again, if you really want to eat, not just nibble, Fusettes also offers seven hunger-quashing types of banh mi. Inspired by Aga's business partner (whose family owns Saigon Lotus) and built on house bread, the sandwiches are zesty and bright, fresh and filling, with enough fresh herbs and sauce to breathe oodles of flavour into every bite.
Carnivores will want to hone in on the team's five meat-stuffed options, from Grilled Beef ($11.90) and Five Spice Pork Belly ($11.90) to Fried Chicken ($11.90).
Each is layered with fresh lettuce and tomato, pickled veg, house mayo, soy and herbs before its safely swaddled in gingham paper.
Plant-based eaters, meanwhile, need not fear missing out, thanks to Crispy Vegan Chicken ($11.90) and Spicy Lemongrass Tofu ($11.90) options that pack just as much punch as their meaty counterparts.
A place that invites members of the community to gather, to try something new, and to simply feel at home, Fusettes is about filling a need more than turning a profit. "Corporate interests do not govern the way we serve the community," emphasizes Aga.
Fusettes is located at 407 Yonge Street.
Fareen Karim